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--- cars:brakes [2025/02/10 20:03] – created - external edit 127.0.0.1
+++ cars:brakes [2025/02/13 07:25] (current) – Nedra
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 ====== Brakes ======
-You need brakes!
+Mechanical Brakes which can completely stop your kart in 18 feet are a required safety system. (1.13.3) while other style (band, Boden-cable disk) brakes have been common in the past, it's highly recommended that any new builds going forward use hydraulic disk brakes. Especially since your brake assembly does not count towards the cost of your vehicle on the BOM, (as is the case with all safety-exempt items) their usefulness should be prioritized.
-Brakes do not count towards the cost of your vehicle as they are considered 'safety equipment' so go nuts if you can. Good breaking allows for better driving.
+Commercially produced Motorcycle hydraulic brake kits, which include a hydraulic reservoir on a hand lever, hydraulic tubing, fittings, a caliper set and pads, and the disk the calipers bite down on, can be purchased from the online retailer of your choice, even pre-filled with fluid, so as little engineering as possible is needed to install them.
-Band brakes are typically only used on slower cars. If you're a speed demon hellbent on going fast band brakes probably won't work for you. (But if it's your first build and you're mid-paced, they can work.) Lots of people use disc brakes with calipers, and some people do hydraulic brakes.
+Be aware: the forces the brake calipers apply to your frame are some of the most acute stresses your frame will be under while in normal operation. Weld or otherwise reinforce the section of your chassis which the brake calipers bolt to so that the act of braking doesn't break your brakes.
-See Also: [[https://groups.google.com/d/msg/power-racing-series/RZWqTzyIMV4/3MNO_VjFBPEJ|Brakes! A more technical discussion]]
+Most karts on the field today run with a single brake caliper and disk on the solid rear axle, and can regularly lock-up the axle completely with little braking force needed from the brake lever/handle.
 ===== Brake Test =====
-During qualifying you will need to pass the brake test. You do your qualifying lap as fast as you can and you'll then need to stop in time. We set a marker X number of feet past the finish line and if you can't stop before it, you fail.
+Be especially aware: During the Qualifying event at every race weekend you will need to pass the brake test. (4.1.1.2) failing to stop after the end of your Hot Lap within 18 feet of the Timing and Scoring truss will result in a "scratch" and your lap time will not be counted. **Karts that do not pass the brake test are not allowed to race.**
 ===== Brake Lights =====
-Brake lights are awesome, and actually do help other teams from plowing into your rear end. They are not required, but they are recommended.
+Brake lights are recommended safety systems (required for night races) and are safety exempt from the BOM. the aforementioned hydraulic brake kits often have a NO electronic switch included in the brake lever which closes when the brake lever is depressed. If you already have this switch built into your brake lever, it's   reasonably straightforward to wire up some red lamps on the rear of the kart to cut on through the switch.
+(A low voltage buck converter/regulator which drives a myriad of low voltage electrical systems is not inherently BOM-exempt just because it also powers a taillight assembly, and does count on the BOM if it also provides regulated power to any non-exempt systems.)
-(Add links below to various brake solutions)
-===== Links =====
+===== Historic Links =====
+These historic links are preserved here for posterity:
+See Also: [[https://groups.google.com/d/msg/power-racing-series/RZWqTzyIMV4/3MNO_VjFBPEJ|Brakes! A more technical discussion]]
    * [[http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=34|Lighter duty parts]]